Espresso

Espresso




ESPRESSO

Espresso, the making, consuming and enjoyment of a properly made Espresso is another
facet and time honored tradition of Italian-Americans and their culture. We do
love our properly pulled Espresso. A properly pulled Espresso is a thing of
beauty and refinement, and must be done just so. We can and do make Espresso in
our homes with either a Neapolitan or Moka brewing device, and now these days, there
are any number of expensive new-fangled home espresso makers, more on that
later.

Some
might be surprised but the great art of the perfect Italian Espresso has been
around for just about 110 years. Yes Italians drank Espresso before that, but
it was only developed into a “Fine Art” that it is today, just a little more
then a hundred years ago or so when Luigi Bezzera developed the first Espresso
Machine that we know today. After this landmark in Espresso history, the
consumption and popularity of Espresso grew rapidly. Caffes and Espresso Bars
popped up everywhere all over Italy. These Espresso Bars were places to have an
Espresso and socialize. And in Italy, there is a whole act and ritual to going
to an Espresso Bar for your habitual morning coffee. And it’s not just for the
Espresso but some socializing, a bit of chit-chat, gossip, political talk,
sports (Soccer/Futbol), this-that-and-every-other-thing. This morning Espresso
is quite ritualistic in Italy, and is practiced by most, and in every corner of
the country, on every other street corner in cities like; Rome, Bologna, Palermo,
Milano, Verona, all over. And it is quite the sight to see, especially if
you’re an American going for the first time. In caffes and bars in Italy it is
at the stand-up Espresso bar where all the action takes place. When you go into
a caffe (a.k.a. Bar) in Italy and have a Espresso, Cappuccino, whatever, and
sit at a table, that Espresso will cost you an additional 50% or more than it
will if you consume it standing up at the counter at the Espresso Bar. It’s a
tax thing. The caffe owners are taxed on their tables and this tax gets passed
on to the customer. Basta!
Anyway, the ritual of the early morning Italian Espresso? People get dressed, leave
their homes and are on their way to work, but they don’t go right from their
house to their job. No they have to have an Espresso and the ritual of the
Espresso and some Chit-Chat (BS) with a quick stop at their favorite local
caffe. They might leave their house then go to an Espresso Bar near their home
before going to their job, or they may head to their job, then get an Espresso
at a favored caffe near the work-place. They might even do both, get an
Espresso in their neighborhood before heading to work, then stopping at an Espresso
Bar close to their workplace before bopping into work.
     Well, that’s the way they do it in Italy,
quite a ritual and amazing to see. In America, Italian immigrants to cities
like New York, Boston, Providence, and Philadelphia opened Social Clubs that
served Espresso, maybe some sandwiches, soup, soda, Biscotti, and Anisette
Toast, and Cannoli that they bought from a nearby baker. These Social Clubs
which sprung up in neighborhoods like the Lower East Side of New York or what
is now called Little Italy, in Boston’s North End, and San Francisco’s North
Beach. These Social Clubs (Caffe) were primarily of and for the working class,
and were for Italians. The clubs were for Italians, and people of other
nationalities did not go into them unless they were brought in by an Italian
guy from the neighborhood. And that’s the way it was back then.
 
 
 

Espresso e Dolce at home? When I was growing up and went to my Aunt Fran and Uncle
Tony’s house in Lodi, or to Aunt Helen’s for Sunday Dinner, and we ate our
meal, and it moved on to coffee and dessert, this was quite a sight that brings
back nice memories for me to this very day. And it was a wonderful ritual, and
unlike the quick grab your Espresso, Chit-Chat for a few minutes and run out
the door as is done at caffe’s and Espresso Bars in Italy, the Espresso was
anything but Espresso (Fast) at Bellino Family meals, as is with millions of
Italian-American families over the years. No, this was no quick hit-and-run
affair. The coffee and dessert course at our family gatherings was the longest
portion of our all day affair of the Sunday Meal. My Aunts and Uncles would sit
around the table, we (the Kids) would too, but we would go back and forth,
cause this sit-down at the table usually lasted about 3 hours, maybe more. We’d
sit down, and Aunt Fran and Aunt Helen had the Neapolitan going with Espresso.
The table was laden with all sorts of goodies; Cannolis of course, one or two
different cakes, and an assortment of Italian Cookies and Pastries
(Sfogiatelle, Mille Foglie). There was always enough to fill Pastry Shop
Showcase, “I kid you not!”

The
table full of my aunts and uncles was a wonder. They’d sit around drinking
coffee, eating pastries, and talk-talk-talk, about politics, sports, gossip,
this-that-and-everything. My uncle Frank who was the Ring-Leader could have
solved all the Worlds problems, right there at that table, filled with Cannoli,
Biscotti, Coffee (Espresso), cakes, Anisette, heated discussion, laughter, and
a “Bundle of Joy,” all over Espresso.
Aunt Helen and Aunt Fran made the Espresso in Neapolitan Espresso Maker. The
Neapolitan is from Napoli, Italy. It was developed so Neapolitans (and all
Italians) could make Espresso in their homes. The Neapolitan is a two-piece
device whereby, you fill the bottom of the vessel with water, the ground
espresso goes in the middle and you screw on the empty top. To make Espresso
with the Neapolitan you put the device on the stove over a flame with the piece
filled with the water on the stove. The water heats, and when it comes to the
boil, you turn the flame off, flip the vessel over so the hot water is at the
top and will then drip down through the ground coffee to make the Espresso. The
Espresso is not as good as that you’d get at a caffe or Espresso Bar with a
large machine, but it’s good enough, and adding a little shot of Anisette is
never a bad thing, something my Uncle Frank always did. This is called a Caffe
Corretto, the act of adding a few drops of your desire liquor into your
espresso. You can add; Grappa, Sambucca, Brandy, Anisette, or other liquor to
make a caffe corretto. At Aunt Fran & Unlce Tony’s, it was always Anisette.
Basta.
 
 .
My NAPOLITAN
I Bought in NAPOLI 1987
 

As a child it was always something to see, watching Aunt Fran or Aunt Helen go
through the pleasant little ritual of making Espresso in that curious looking
contraption, the Neapolitan. As I said, it always intrigued me, and when I took
my first trip to Italy and was in Napoli walking through a street market and
spotted a merchant selling Neapolitans and other kitchenware’s, I just had to get myself one, a Neapolitan of my own and from the great city it was invented in, Napoli. I also brought back some
beautiful ceramic plates from nearby Vietro sul Mare on the nearby Amalfi
coast, and I’ve been making Espresso with my Neapolitan (bought in Napoli), and
eating Spaghetti on those beautiful Amalfi Coast Plates from ever since, a joy,
and a way to bring Italy into your own American home. Doing so, brings back
beautiful memories of; Positano, The Amalfi Coast, Sicily, and the rest of
Italy. If you can’t be there (which is a shame), then bring Italy into your
home. And that is what we do, every time we sit down to a meal, a glass of
wine, or a simple little cup of Espresso, “we bring Italy home.”

 

 

 
ESPRESSO is Excerpted from Daniel Bellino-Zwicke ‘s  SUNDAY SAUCE
 
 
SUNDAY SAUCE  – When Italian-Americans Cook is Available in Paperback & Kindle
on Amazon.com
 
 
 
Cannolis Were Always on The Table
 
 
And a Bottle of Anisette
.
 
 
SECRET ITALIAN RECIPES
 
 
 
 
 
 
A MOKA POT
 
For Making Espresso
 
 
 
 
 
Toto & Peppino 
 
with a NAPOLITAN
 
in
 
The BAND of HONEST MEN 1956
 

Clemenza’s Meatball Sunday Sauce

Image

Well, it seems we’ve been waiting forever, 41 years to be exact since the release of one of America’s most epic movies, The Godfather by Italian-American Director Francis Ford Coppola. What have we been waiting for? A book dedicated to the legendary scene when Corleone Family Caporegime Peter Clemenza teaches Michael Corleone (Al Pacino) how to make “Sauce,” Sunday Sauce that is, aka Gravy, the beloved, monumental, most important dish in all of Italian-America, its cooking, eating and gathering of the family. Clemenza fries up some garlic with tomatoes and Tomato Paste, then “throw in your Meatballs and Sausage,” he adds a little wine, a bit of sugar, and that’s his secret. It’s a piece of movie, AMerican, and Italian American History, purely classical and it’s in Daniel B. Bellino’s new book Clemenza’s Meatball Sunday Sauce, the most anticipated cookbook of 2013 ..

Yes, Clemenza’s Meatball Sunday Sauce “Gravy” recipe is in their in all its fabulousness, as is Charlie & Big Paulie’s Goodfellas Sunday Sauce and Henry’s Veal & Peppers recipes. LEarn how to make Meatballs, Pasta Fazool, Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce, Mussels Marinara and much more. Daniel even includes the top secret recipe for Salsa Segreta, the “Secret Sauce” of beloved (now defunct) New York Italian favorite restaurant Gino’s …

There’s Daniel’s own famed Sunday Sauce and Amatriciana recipes and much more. This book is an absolute Gem “Must Have” for anyone interested in the wonderful Food and History of Italian-American, Italian Food and of course the star of the show, Sunday Sauce. You will delight in every recipe and the whimsical stories and anecdotes of the Italian American lifestyle, particularly in New York and of Mob Movies. As I’ve said it is a must have and especially now with Daniel’s generous introductory offer of just .99 Cents a copy. It’s a steal.

ClemzaMBSunSauceCOVER copy

In NEW YORK REGULAR COFFEE is KING

In NEW YORK REGULAR COFFEE is KING

My Morning Coffee. Couldn’t live without it. Get’s me goin, hundreds of Millions a day. each and every day. You just gotta have that cup of Joe. For most Americans, it’s in the house, though millions get it out. On the go, at the office, or if your lucky, you’ll sit down and enjoy it leisurely at your local cafe, as I.

I Love my morning Coffee, the Coffee itself, but it’s not just the coffee, it going to the cafe, chit-chatting with the counter girls, maybe bumping into a friend, or having a conversation with a cafe regular like me.
I’m happy to get my Coffee, jump onto my Laptop, read the News, my emails, Surf, do a bit of writing, Or a lot!
And that first sip. Taste so Good. I just Love it, “warm and Comforting” that Morning Coffee is. Don’t you just Love it? I do! How many Millions do? Americans, Italians, the French, Swedes, an-on-and-on, 1 Billion people every day, Two or Three, who knows. OK, I just did a little research (I wouldn’t have been able to do this Pre-Internet Days). OK, about 150 Million Americans drink about 225,000,000 cups of coffee every day. Worldwide about 1.5 Billion people drink about 225 Billion cups of Coffee on a daily basis. Wow!
In Italy, your morning Coffee could be either an Espresso or Cappuccino, but after 1130 A.M. Italians no longer would drink Cappuccino or Caffe Latte any longer in the day, and they laugh at Americans who order a Cappuccino in a restaurant after Dinner.
For me, my morning Coffee has just gotta be a regular. Nothing else will do. Well maybe an occasional Cappuccino which was my morning coffee for years at what used to be my favorite Caffee for a couple decades, Caffe Dante. I Loved my Cappuccino, but many a time, I sat there in Caffe Dante wishing I had a Regular Cup of Joe. The cappuccino doesn’t last as long as that Cup of Joe, plus it’s “Twice the Price,” and when you go out for about 800 Coffees a year, as I do, the price of the Cappuccino plus tip can add up to quite a lot more Money. I’ve figured it out, to about $750 a year if I still had the same Cafe and Coffee drinking habits as in the past.
A regular American Coffee is more satisfying, just the right balance of roast Coffee Beans brewed in the drip method with just the right amount of water. I add some Milk, no sugar, and for me, that is my perfect cup of Morning Coffee. You can keep your high priced Cappuccino, Espresso, and those ridiculous things they serve to Amateur Coffee Drinkers at Starbucks. It’s all Marketing which most Americans are easily Brainwashed into. The same reason that “Ridiculous Sitcoms like Two and a Half men and other sitcoms are popular. And the same reason why that “Awful Garbage Hip Hop” is so popular. Most Americans have “Horrible Taste,” are Followers, and easily Brainwashed. Sorry, but this could be the only reason why Millions would pay Millions of Dollars every day for “Abortionated Drinks” like Caramel Lattes and the like, and such “Awful Tasteless Noise as Hip Hop.”
Ok, I’ve made my point. Back to my Morning Coffee, and it’s just gotta be a “Regular.” In New York, a “Regular Coffee” is King. No matter that many Cappuccinos, Espresso, those ridiculous Starbucks Concoctions are drunk everyday. In comparison they make up just a small percentage of the many various forms of coffee that can be made. Regular American Coffee is king, whether in your home, on the go from a Deli, after Lunch or Dinner in a restaurant, or even in, yes Starbucks. More than 85% of the millions of cups of coffee made every single day in New York, day after day, 365 of them a year, 85% of them are the good old American Classic, American Coffee. A Regular.
 
by Daniel Belllino Zwicke

SUNDAY SAUCE

SUNDAY SAUCE

One of the great traditions of the Italian American enclave in the U.S. is the ritual of Sunday afternoon when the entire family gets together for Mama’s or Nona’s famed “Sunday Sauce.” What is it? Well there are a number of variations on the theme. Most Sunday Sauce’s are made with Italian Sausage, Braciola, and Meatballs. Some people make theirs with pork ribs, beef neck, and possibly chicken thighs and backs. These meats are slowly simmered for several hours with tomato, minced onions, garlic, celery, and carrots. I generally like to make my Sunday Sauce with sausage, meatballs, and pork ribs. Other times I’ll make it with sausage, ribs, and braciola. An old tradition in some families is that mother or grandma would start the sauce early on a Sunday morning, get it simmering away for a couple hours on top of the stove, then put it in the oven for a couple hours while everyone goes to church, the sauce slowly simmers and when you get back home, the sauce is ready.
The Sunday Sauce that my mother would make was with sausage, meatballs and beef braciola. My memories are vivid watching my mother stuffing the braciola with garlic,
parsley, Pecorino, and pignoli nuts, then sewing up the bundles with a needle and thread so they would hold together while simmering in the gravy (many families all over the New York and around the country simply call Sunday Sauce “Gravy”). Another fond memory was helping my mother roll and shape the meatballs.
As for me, my Sunday Sauce will vary depending on my mood. One thing I love to do when making the sauce is the addition of pork spare ribs, which not to many people use, I love it.
Whenever people eat my sauce, they go nuts for the ribs and some are surprised cause they might never have had them in a sauce before. They didn’t know that you could use pork spareribs. The ribs are traditional with some but not everybody. It is quite a shame for those who don’t add the ribs because they give the sauce some wonderful flavor and they are incredibly delicious to eat after braising in the sauce for a couple of hours. Whenever I make the sauce and I’m dishing it out to friends and family, I always make sure that I have my fare share of the ribs. Pork ribs cooked in this manner, simmering in the sauce are oh so succulent and tasty. They are far beyond compare. “They are Out-of-this-World!!!” The friends, one-by-one, go nuts for them. “Yes they are most than tasty!”
And what to serve with the Sunday Sauce you ask? It should be a short macaroni; rigatoni, ziti, or gnocchi are best.
The rituals of cooking, serving, and eating Sunday Sauce is a time honored one. It is a beautiful thing. If you mention the term Sunday Sauce to any number of millions of Italian-Americans, the wheels start turning in their heads. Thoughts of how tasty it is, all the different components; the meatballs, sausages, braciola, (maybe ribs, beef or pork neck), the pasta, and the gravy itself.
They think about sitting at the table with friends and or family, people they love. They think about the antipasti that will start the meal and about some good Italian Wine, maybe a nice Chianti. They think about the warmth in the air, loved ones, Dino, Sinatra, and of course, the
Sunday Sauce itself. “It’s a beautiful thing!!!” If you’ve never done it, “Try it!” If you haven’t cooked one for some time, plan a get-together soon. “Sunday Sauce, it brings people together,” in a most delightful way.

“SUNDAY SAUCE” is excerpted from Daniel Bellino Zwicke’s
upcoming book “La Tavola”

GRAVY

 

"La TAVOLA" AMERICA'S BEST BOLOGNESE SAUCE .. Recipe in "La TAVOLA"  by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

“La TAVOLA” AMERICA’S BEST BOLOGNESE SAUCE .. Recipe in “La TAVOLA” by Daniel Bellino Zwicke