Finicky (Notoriously “Off The Mark”) New York Post Food Critic Steve Cuozzo gives Carbone a luke-warm 2 Stars and quotes The Godfather, saying” The Veal is not the Best in The City,” a line made famous by Al Litieri as Vrigil Sollozzo tells crooked New York City Police Captain McColskey, when he ask, “How’s the Italian Food in this restaurant (Louie’s)?” Solozzo tels him to get the Veal, it’s the best in the city. Well Cuozzo definitely didn’t think that of the Veal at Carbone.
Cuzzo on Carbone’s Pasta
“Pasta monotonously lacked contrast or texture. Only one of six I tried rang the bell: modestly named, immodestly priced ($30) spaghetti de mare. The joy lay less in showoff elements like rock shrimp, bay scallops and razor clams, than in crackling tomato, garlic, chili, parsley and garlic. Most others evoked mediocre trattorias, especially dry and clumpy angel hair begging for more olive oil.”
Cuzzo on Carbone’s Clams:
Clams three ways batted .333; while oreganata clicked, neither lardo on top of casinos, nor sea urchin in a “fantasia” preparation was my idea of heaven.
Steve Cuozzo’s Fianl Statement on Carbone:
“A restaurant born of so much talent and expectation should dazzle us from inizio alla fine. Carbone flickers like a teasing moon through billows of pomp — in a town full of truly great Italian places, it’s an offer I’ll gently refuse.”
Cuozzo Says Carbone’s $50.00 VEAL PARMIGIANO Is Enough for Two “But Not The Best in The CITY”