Monthly Archives: July 2011

SUNDAY SAUCE

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SUNDAY SAUCE

One of the great traditions of the Italian American enclave in the U.S. is the ritual of Sunday afternoon when the entire family gets together for Mama’s or Nona’s famed “Sunday Sauce.” What is it? Well there are a number of variations on the theme. Most Sunday Sauce’s are made with Italian Sausage, Braciola, and Meatballs. Some people make theirs with pork ribs, beef neck, and possibly chicken thighs and backs. These meats are slowly simmered for several hours with tomato, minced onions, garlic, celery, and carrots. I generally like to make my Sunday Sauce with sausage, meatballs, and pork ribs. Other times I’ll make it with sausage, ribs, and braciola. An old tradition in some families is that mother or grandma would start the sauce early on a Sunday morning, get it simmering away for a couple hours on top of the stove, then put it in the oven for a couple hours while everyone goes to church, the sauce slowly simmers and when you get back home, the sauce is ready.
The Sunday Sauce that my mother would make was with sausage, meatballs and beef braciola. My memories are vivid watching my mother stuffing the braciola with garlic,
parsley, Pecorino, and pignoli nuts, then sewing up the bundles with a needle and thread so they would hold together while simmering in the gravy (many families all over the New York and around the country simply call Sunday Sauce “Gravy”). Another fond memory was helping my mother roll and shape the meatballs.
As for me, my Sunday Sauce will vary depending on my mood. One thing I love to do when making the sauce is the addition of pork spare ribs, which not to many people use, I love it.
Whenever people eat my sauce, they go nuts for the ribs and some are surprised cause they might never have had them in a sauce before. They didn’t know that you could use pork spareribs. The ribs are traditional with some but not everybody. It is quite a shame for those who don’t add the ribs because they give the sauce some wonderful flavor and they are incredibly delicious to eat after braising in the sauce for a couple of hours. Whenever I make the sauce and I’m dishing it out to friends and family, I always make sure that I have my fare share of the ribs. Pork ribs cooked in this manner, simmering in the sauce are oh so succulent and tasty. They are far beyond compare. “They are Out-of-this-World!!!” The friends, one-by-one, go nuts for them. “Yes they are most than tasty!”
And what to serve with the Sunday Sauce you ask? It should be a short macaroni; rigatoni, ziti, or gnocchi are best.
The rituals of cooking, serving, and eating Sunday Sauce is a time honored one. It is a beautiful thing. If you mention the term Sunday Sauce to any number of millions of Italian-Americans, the wheels start turning in their heads. Thoughts of how tasty it is, all the different components; the meatballs, sausages, braciola, (maybe ribs, beef or pork neck), the pasta, and the gravy itself.
They think about sitting at the table with friends and or family, people they love. They think about the antipasti that will start the meal and about some good Italian Wine, maybe a nice Chianti. They think about the warmth in the air, loved ones, Dino, Sinatra, and of course, the
Sunday Sauce itself. “It’s a beautiful thing!!!” If you’ve never done it, “Try it!” If you haven’t cooked one for some time, plan a get-together soon. “Sunday Sauce, it brings people together,” in a most delightful way.

“SUNDAY SAUCE” is excerpted from Daniel Bellino Zwicke’s
upcoming book “La Tavola”

GRAVY

BAR PITTI … “NEW YORK’S BEST ITALIAN”

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When it comes to great Italian Food, in a city (New York) that is known to have the Best Italian Food in the World outside of Italy, it’s hard to beat Bar Pitti, which is why Bar Pitti may very well be the “Best Italian Restaurant” in New York City! Yes!
Wait a minute, scratch that “maybe.” No, Bar Pitti serves without a doubt, thee “Best Italian Food in New York.” You don’t think so? name one that is better. And please only qualified people please. No followers or Hack Food Critics like
Frank Bruni.
Who could compete? Maybe Babbo, Del Posto, Elio’s, Lupa. They are all good, but none as good and consistent as Bar Pitti.
Il Mulino is absolutely “Aweful!” An “Overpriced Lackluster Restaurant” with horrible ambiance, mechanical annoying service, and food that is merely good, and no better and insanely “High Prices.” It’s a place for “Followers” who run with the crowd and wouldn’t know real good Italian Food if it came up and Bit Them in The Ass.
Babbo many would say. Well Babbo is quite good, but just can’t hold up to Bar Pitti with more of a true Italian feel, great food at truly real Italian Prices. Babbo is a great Special Occasion restaurant, but for everyday eating, Babbo doesn’t even come close to Bar Pitti for “Great Quality Price Ratio,” and even not considering the prices, if they were the same, though the food at Babbo is very good and I’ve had a few very enjoyable meals there, I have been disappointed a couple of times, something that has “Never” happened to me at Bar Pitti and I’ve eaten there more times, yet never been disappointed, not once, and always had a great time. So even if the prices were the same, Bar Pitti still has an edge, with Better More Consistent Authentic Italian Food than Babbo.
How bout Maialino, Laconde Verde, Osteria Morini, and others? As MC Hammer would say, “Can’t Touch This.”
So if you’re looking for Thee “Best Italian Food in New York” there’s one name, “Bar Pitti.”

Recommended Dishes:

Coda d’Vacinara (Braised Oxtails) 150 Points on a 100 Pt Scale

Bolito d’Manzo (Boiled Beef) Taste a whole Lot Better than it sounds!

Polpettine d’ Vitello (Veal Meatballs)

Fegato al Salvia (Calves Liver sauteed w/Sage)

Paparadelle con Sugo d’Coniglio (Pasta with Rabbit Ragu)

PUNTARELLE Wild Roman Greens Salad w/Anchovy Dressing

by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

BAR PITTI

NEW YORK'S BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT

Daniel Bellino and The MINETTA BURGER vs Josh Ozersky and The BLACK LABEL BURGER

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BELLINO and THE MINETTA BURGER vs OZERSKY and The Black Label Burger

photo by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

“Yes,” Minetta Tavern’s Second-Tier Burger, The “Minetta Burger” is without question thee “Better Burger” served at Minetta Tavern. Noted Foodie, Writer (The Hamburger) Burger Authority Josh Ezersky would disagree. Well, Mr. Ozersky is entitled to his opinion, as well as I and Thousands of others and the majority who like the Minetta Burger better than the now Highly Touted Minetta Tavern Black Label Burger, who some feel is the top burger in New York, even the World some say.

So, I’m wondering if some say the Minetta Black Label Burger is New York’s Best and even the World’s, does that make The Minetta Burger, according to myself and the majority of those polled, “New York’s” even the World’s Best Burger. “Not quite.”
This is a very subjective matter and one of personal taste. I can see why Mr. Ozersky loves the Minetta Tavern Black Label Burger so much, proclaiming it New York’s Top Burger and I believe he “May” said it is The Best in The World, but I’m not absolutely sure, so don’t quote me on that. Yes it is a Good Burger, and if you feel it is Great, than Yes it is Great to You and Everyone else who says it is Great. As for me, without question the “Minetta Burger” is Better, “Hell, It’s Tastier” and that’s all that counts isn’t it. And I’ll tell you why it’s tastier.
First off, the Blend and Quality of meat in the Minetta Burger is “Better for a Burger.” Note that I don’t say that the meat is just better, but better for making a Burger. Why? Well, Dry-Age Meat with it’s powerful gamey taste is not the best taste for Ground-Meat and a Hamburger. Fresher Meat that has not been aged, is much Better for a Burger, an it Taste a Hell of a Lot Better than ground dry-aged beef which did you Know that in it’s aging process is actually deteriorating? Some people like that taste. Fine. I do not, especially in ground meat and in my Burger. I’d much rather have my ground meat for a Burger Fresh.
And did you know that the Ground Meat Blend from Pat La Frieda for the Minetta Burger is a Blend of Prime Beef Short Rib, Beef Brisket, and Beef Clod, and this blend was La Frieda’s “Premium Blend” before he came up with the Black Label Blend which is Dry-Aged Rib Steak, and cost a lot more, thus the more Expensive Price of Minetta Tavern’s Black Label Burger at $26.00 for the Cheaper and Superior $17.00 “Minetta Burger.”
Just because something is more Expensive, does not make it better, and the Minetta Burger vs The Black Label Burger is a Classic example of more Expensive not being better than cheaper.
Why? Well, because of our current state of a bad economy, New York Steak Houses, Restaurants, and Meat Purveyors such as Pat La Frieda and others found that expensive cuts of Beef like Prime Sirloin Steaks and Prime Dry Aged Rib Steaks were not selling as well as they used to. Expensive, people have less money. Put 2-And-2-Together. So, these meat purveyors found themselves not selling as much as the High-Ticket Cuts. What to do? Well, as a result of a Bad Economy and Boggers Loving Burgers for there Affordability and Blogability, Burgers have become Insanely Popular in the past four years or so. Pat La Frieda has a great idea, make and Market Ground High-End Cuts of Dry-Aged Beef, give it a Fancy name, “Black Label,” and the rest is part of Hamburger History.
As for me, I’ll take the Better Tasting Burger that just so happens to be substantially cheaper to boot, the Minetta Burger.
by Daniel Bellino Zwicke

GREAT NEW YORK BURGERS..5 of Our FAVORITES

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ONE of NEW YORK'S FAVORITES

5 of New York's TOP BURGERS

1) Shake Shack gets my vote for New Yorks "BEST BURGER" It is the
 Quintessential American Burger, not too Fancy, no unnecessary 
 elements, cooked on a Flat-Top Grill the way any Great Burger should be, just about
 the right size5-6 oz., Excellent Quality Meat, and Cook properly to Tasty
 Perfection! PS...the Price is right!! Not $26 or even $15 or $16! Yumm,
 the BEST!!!

2) LUGER BURGER...... Excelleent Burger in a Great local. one of the
 Best-Price-Per Value, which you have to factor in to any Great Burgers
 rating, "$26 is just WRONG (Black Label Burger at Minetta) any Burger
 that cost more than $ Luger Burger is a steal at just $9.95, get some of
 the Tasty Luger Bacon to go with it, and maybe some Creamed Spinach
 and your set. Luger Burger at Lunch is one of NY's Best kept food 
 secrets. Try it some time!

3) Bills Bar and Burger. Plain and simple, Great Burger at a dam good
 price with just the right ambiance for a Burger and Beer. Talkin about
 the Original in the Meatpacking Dist. here. Haven't been to the new one
 in Rockefeller Center.

4) "Minetta Burger" not the "Black Lable Burger which is OVERPRICED
 and does not taste anywhere near as Good as The Minetta Burger
 which at $16 is just right. It is a Tasty Prime Burger served with a big
 mound of Fries that all of "Keith McNally's" Bistros are Famous for,
 they're the best in Town. And the ambiance at Minetta Tavern is
 awesome. It just can't be beat. So if you go to Minetta Tavern for a
 Burger, get the Best and Tatstiest one they make, make sure you
 order the "Minetta Burger" it greattttttttttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
5) BISTRO BURGER at the Corner Bistro. This Burger probably won't
 make it into a lot of people Top 10 anymore, but before Burgers were
 a huge Fad and Cool, before there were Blogs and 100,0000s of
 people rating Burgers, The "Bistro Burger" at the "Corner Bistro" in
 New Yorks Greenwich Village Was New Yorks "Top Burger" for some
 30 Years! Yes! Year after Year, decade after decade the Burgers at
 the Corner Bistro was rated the BEST by the only peopel who really
 rated or reviewed Burgers for a long time; New York Magazine, the
 NY Times, Cue Magazine, The NY Post, Village Voice, and the
 Daily News. Yes, i have been disappointed by the Burger a few times
 in the past few years, not always the best, but often times it is
 Pretty Dam Good and for the fact that its only $6.50 for a Cheeseburger
 and you can get a $3 beer too but, combined with the feel of one of
 New yorks last remaining Old-School Bars and for its Nostalgic,
 historical value, and 30 Year Reign as NY's Top Burger, you just gotta
 include the Corner Bistro amongst your BestBburger Joints in NYC.

.. Daniel Bellino Zwicke ....

LA TAVOLA “ITALIAN -AMERICAN NEW YORKER’S ADVENTURES of the TABLE”

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ITALIAN AMERICAN NEW YORK'S ADVENTURES of the TABLE



    There has long been a debate, fights, and Mud-Slinging in regards to Italian and Italian-American

food served in restaurants in New York and the rest of the U.S.. Culinary Snobs, people who “Think” they know what they are talking about and what not. I can set the record straight, being an

 Italian-American who has been eating Italian and Italian-American food for more than forty years, who has been professional Chef and someone who has eaten all over Italy on some 15 trips to the great peninsular. In addition to studying Italian Food in Italy for some 25 years, I am constantly reading all sorts of articles , cookbooks, and historical facts on this subject, in addition to being one of the countries foremost authorities on Italian Wine.

   Anyway, let me tell you. I myself was once a uninformed Food Snob who badmouthed and was slightly disdainful of unauthentic Italian food being served in restaurants all over the city. That’s just in restaurants. Of course I Loved eating Sunday Sauce, Eggplant Parmigiano, and Meatballs that my aunts made at our frequent family get together s. And on the occasions that we weren’t at one of the family’s homes but in an Italian restaurant in Lodi or Garfield, I usually ordered Chicken  or Veal Parmigiano. Yes I loved it, but these dishes, for me at the time (1985-1993) had their place, and it was not in the kitchen or on the plates of any serious Italian Restaurant in Manhattan.

   Eventually as I learned more of the history of food in New York, Italy, and the World, I realized that there was actually a real true Italian-American Cuisine and that it was completely valid.

  Do you realize that if you think there is not a true valid Italian-American Cuisine, then you also must concede that there is No True French Cuisine, because the origins of what we now know as French food and Cuisine is really Italian. Yes, I said Italian. For the food and cuisine of French was quite primitive and did not begin to form into what we now know as French Food and French Cuisine until Caterina Medici of the Noble Florentine Family of the Medici married the King of France and brought her Florentine Chefs with her to the French Court way back in the 15th Century. So there. Many dishes which most people think of as French in origin, like Duck ala Orange, Bechamel, and others, are really Italian. “So there!”

   Anyway, back to Italian-American food. Food and cuisines are constantly changing and evolving. This is how Florentine Chefs of Italy, went to France with the newly crowned French Queen who was of the Italian Peninsular in one Katherine Medici  and taught the French how to cook. Thus Italians immigrating to the United States in the early 20th Century brought their ingredients and techniques from mother Italy to cook the dishes from their homeland, with some modifications do to financial issues (being poor) and the unavailability of certain ingredients, and started forming what would one day be known as Italian-American  food (Cuisine).


“to be Continued”


by Daniel Bellino Zwicke